Cities have a choice: they can look either forward or back. Those with a clear sense of their own identity often opt for the latter, preserving the past and giving way to the new only if this helps them to strengthen what appears to grow naturally from their deep-rooted traditions. While other cities, those that…
Having addressed the issue of Milan’s alleged lack of “Italianness” in last week’s post, we will today deal with another stick that is often used to beat the city with: Milan “does not do quirky”, it is said. This is an accusation that can be refuted rather easily. All it takes is a visit of…
You will often hear people say that Milan is the “least Italian of Italian cities”, by which they mean: a well-ordered place that lacks the “typically Italian” sense for the joys of anarchy. On today’s walk, we will do two things: first, confirm that, yes, Milan is rather straight-laced and square (in more than on…
Italian cities share a family likeness that is – like all family likenesses – easier to recognise than to define. Is it the colours (above all, the blend of rich yellows), the delicately balanced proportions, the trompe l’oeil effects, the distinctly classical architectural features? It is probably a little bit from all of that. No…
There are enough hiking trails on the eastern side of Lake Como to keep you busy for more than a week. The most popular of the lot is probably the Sentiero del Viandante, a 70-km-long lakeside trail between Lecco and Morbegno at the foot of the Alps. On our first day at the lake, I…
There are many reasons to visit Italy, but here is the most important one: it is the one destination in Europe that is reliably beautiful. Other countries have beauty spots on what is otherwise a coat of many colours, some of which may be rather grey and unbecoming, but in Italy, no matter where you…
This is a post, above all, in praise of the Italian town of Lodi near Milan. However, It is also a post in praise of all those other Lodis across the world, unassuming places into which travellers only ever stumble by chance. These places have so much to offer, and travels would be so much…
This week, we will serve you another slice of unknown Italy but with a twist to the recipe. While last week’s destination of Udine is, roughly following the famous Donald Rumsfeld classification of unfamiliar objects, very much an “unknown unknown” (think: obscure medieval poets), the city of Brescia is “known-unknown” in the fashion of Edmund…
Milan is the economic powerhouse of Italy but also the country’s least charming city. Fortunately for visitors, however, Milan is also surrounded by places which – all within an hour or so by rail – represent the best that Italy can offer. For scenic beauty, few parts of the country can rival Lake Como and…
It is a safe bet that most people, to the extent that they have heard about the Northern Italian town of Monza at all, have done so in one particular context. What are the Tragic Deaths That Have Made Monza Famous This is what has made Monza famous: the Autodromo, the fastest and deadliest track…