There are enough hiking trails on the eastern side of Lake Como to keep you busy for more than a week. The most popular of the lot is probably the Sentiero del Viandante, a 70-km-long lakeside trail between Lecco and Morbegno at the foot of the Alps.
On our first day at the lake, I had seen the Castello Vezio – which I knew was on the route of our nearest Viandante stage – perching on top of a cliff, surrounded by swirling clouds so white and so incredibly high, and thought: I will never be able to drag Mrs Easy Hiker up there.
So I decided to let her off easy – as well as myself and, by implication, you, dear reader – by going for something different: a trail that is much shorter and easier while still full of balcony views even if these balconies may not be located on the 27th floor.
We start our hike at Varenna train station, which is actually located in the neighbouring village of Perledo and a 15-minute downhill stroll away from the trailhead at the ferryboat jetty in Varenna.
The Greenway of Lake Como
Now turn left to enter Lovers’ Lane, the Passeggiata degli Innamorati – …
… which leads, poignantly perhaps, straight into the Greenway dei Patriarchi. (Message from Varenna to all girls out there: you have been warned.)
The first stretch of the walks takes you past some classic lakeside motives …
… but it is also a good idea to veer from the straight and narrow on both sides of the Greenway of Lake Como.
Explore Varenna village by walking up on one of the steep lanes that lead to the Piazza San Giorgio in the town centre …
… and on your right hand side, shuffle down to the lakeside whenever you can find a footpath that takes you there.
When the row of buildings on your right hand side makes way for the famous lakeside gardens of the Villa Monastero, you have to turn uphill on the ramp to your left (called Via Roma) for a fairly steep but short climb.
And don’t forget to turn around for the grand view of Villa Cipressi, another classic Lake Como motive.
You are now entering the middle stretch of the walk with balcony views over much of the lake. Watch as the Bellagio promontory slowly emerges from the fog like Brigadoon, or something out of a Wagner opera. You can almost hear the violins build up to a painfully drawn-out crescendo.
This may be the right moment to talk a little about the weather. You will have noticed that we had picked a somewhat foggy day for our trip to the Patriarchs’ way. Such conditions are apparently not a rare phenomenon around the lake outside of the high season.
In the morning, we had hoped that the fog would eventually dissipate, as it – so we were told – does on most days at around 11 o’clock, but this never happened. Fog is a risk when, in an attempt to avoid the crowds, you visit in winter or early in the spring.
Our advice is to cheer up and see the bright side. After all, fog that steeps everything around you in a mysterious haze has a charm of its own. Those who see the lake in the sunshine will never know what they are missing.
And if the fog is really so bad that you cannot see a thing: remember that you can have a good time without any visual distractions. Enjoy the outdoors exercise and the fresh air, look forward to a meal in a nice restaurant and take some photos for your loved ones at home to tell them of our adventure. We are not letting some low-hanging clouds ruin our day, are we.
Fog or shine: after half an hour on the mezzanine floor of the Lake Como slopes it is time to begin your descent …
… which ends in the small town of Fiumelatte …
… and leads you directly into the old town – or the old village, more like.
You will briefly pass Fiumelatte’s lakeside …
… before having to climb up another, albeit more modest hill for the last meters of the Greenway of Lake Como that will take you up to the train station.
This station – the only building around – is surrounded by a strange landscape: half bushy slope, half neglected garden. It will take you a few minutes to reach the station and another minute or so to recognise it for what it is because the building looks more like an abandoned farmhouse than anything else.
It is difficult to imagine that a modern train would ever come here to disturb its slumber, but actually the track is quite busy: two lines pass here, the express from Milan to Sondrio near the Swiss border and the local train between Lecco and Colico, and since these lines circulate hourly in both directions, there is a lot of train traffic, although only the slow trains actually stop.
It is unlikely that you will meet a soul in the station: there is no staff, and we never saw anybody get on or get off when we passed there on other days. But to while away your time, an exhibition in the station’s waiting room documents the construction and the electrification of the track. It is rather sweet and surprisingly interesting. (Mrs Easy Hiker, however, disagreed on both counts, particularly the latter.)
By far the best thing about Fiumelatte station, at any rate, is the view you get from the back. Lake Como is lying at your feet, while the snow-capped peaks of the Alps are glittering in the distance. This must be one of the most scenic panoramas you get from any train station in Europe.
Although, perhaps, not on that day. Well, you can’t win them all.
One last word. Lake Como, its occasional fog aside, is one of most rewarding destinations in Italy. It is easy-to-get-around (by train, bus and ferry) and easier-to-reach than you may think. The lake is well served by two of Italy’s three busiest airports: Como is actually nearer to Malpensa Airport than Milan itself, while Lecco and Milan are roughly the same distance away from Bergamo airport, a major hub for Europe’s largest discount airline.
And there are loads of different trails around the lake, ranging from the rough and semi-alpine to the easy and bucolic. What’s there not to like?
