Just as any trip to Tuscany feels strangely incomplete without the glories of her capital city, no visitor of Florence should leave without having made an excursion into the surrounding countryside, no matter how brief. Tuscany is one of the world’s truly legendary landscapes, a category which includes places like the Provence and the Black…
For a country with one of the longest coastlines in Europe, Italy – it has always seemed to me – has a surprisingly large number of large landlocked cities: Milan, Turin, Florence. Even Rome, strictly speaking, has no sea harbour (Ostia is more than 30 km away). What is the common secret of these places?…
Here is one point that even the grumpiest visitor of Monaco must concede: the principality is not stingy with its wealth. It provides spotlessly clean and ultra-safe streets (with police officers at every other corner and a dense array of high-tech CCTV systems), while lifts and escalators help the tired huddled masses of visitors along…
Some people find it fashionable to sneer at Monaco. There is nothing categorically wrong about sneering, I enjoy the occasional sneer as much as anybody, but for people who are travelling to see the world, it is the most counterproductive attitude you can imagine. After all, travelling is all about discoveries: about finding new things…
Serendipity is a wonderful thing. The dictionary defines it as “finding something good without looking for it”. The concept apparently has a long tradition in the history of science and discovery, but is – in my view – specifically useful as a strategy for exploring a new or even an already familiar place: instead of…
When we talk about “storied“ towns and cities, the kind of story that we have in mind involves palace intrigues and poisonous plots, riots and revolutions, blood and fury: Troy, Jerusalem, Rome. Not all municipal histories, however, unfold on such an epic scale. There is a no less interesting category of shorter and sharper morality…
This is the time for New Year resolutions, and here is ours: to dedicate more time to provincial France, the vast spaces between capital and coastal areas (vast by European standards, that is: France has a smaller surface area than the US state of Texas). Where the US have their flyover states, France has its…
Are you sitting comfortably? Enjoying your Christmas holidays in the warmth of your home while you can hear the winter rains coming down and the cold winds blow? Good. Because today’s post is not meant to chase you out of the house in search of some outdoor experience but to make you lean back and…
Palm trees, beaches, speedboats: these are the things the Riviera does well. Christmas, not so much. That does not mean that the people over here ever give up trying, but that they do so, with mixed results. Take, for example, Christmas Markets. In the Friench Riviera, any such event always has that unmistakable air of…
On my bookshelf of travel literature, there is also a German book on the Italian Riviera, which is 400 pages strong and which describes every church, historical palazzo and – so it seems – every hamlet on the Ligurian coast with a Teutonic passion for detail. But there is no mention of Bogliasco. Not a…