If it is true that geography is destiny (as is often said), the slopes of the Val d’Aosta have always been fated to be stacked with castles. The surrounding mountains make it difficult for a central authority to gain full control, while the valley’s remoteness from the power centres of its neighbouring countries (historically France…
The Alps are surrounded by large and fascinating cities (such as Turin, Salzburg, Munich) but have themselves little interesting architecture or history to offer. Human settlements in Europe’s highest mountain range have always tended to be small, and most were farming villages until recently – when they became skiing resorts. Either way, there is usually…
The Alps are a two-faced host. Up to an altitude of 1500 or 2000 metres, they welcome their visitors – at least for parts of the year – with a sunny smile and a warm embrace of lush fauna and colour. The barren wastelands and hostile peaks somewhere on the distant horizon do not impend…
Alpine walks have the reputation of being difficult, generally for good reasons. That does not mean that you are doomed to stick to the lowlands unless you are a dab hand at ropes and bottled oxygen. What it does mean, however, is that you must follow certain rules when looking for easy hikes 2000 metres…
Coastal resort towns all over the world are the same – or so I thought before I took a closer look. Since then, I believe that this is a sweeping generalization which, like all sweeping generalizations, contains a grain of truth and a lot of ignorance. In fact, resort towns can be 10 kilometres away…
Seen from the train to Marseille, the Le Ciotat shipyards are the town’s most conspicuous feature. If you stand in the city centre, however, facing these very shipyards from the marina, Le Ciotat’s “Triplet Peaks” easily rival the old docks in size and prominence. In local parlance, these peaks are known as the rochers de…
Never judge a travel destination by what you can see from afar. Chances are you will be lured into a trap by sights that promise more than they can deliver – or, much worse than that, deterred from taking a closer look by one particularly disfiguring element of the townscape. You will never know what…
Any longer journey that is in fact made up of several shorter trips – where you spend one day here and two days there – will, in the end, come out as a mixed bag. Going on journeys like that is the modern equivalent to attending a show in a variety or “vaudeville” theatre where…
Tropea is Calabria’s number one tourist attraction. While this, admittedly, is no reason in itself to go and visit the place, it is also – if you already are in the province – an encouragement to take at least a look. Tropea – the “Pearl of Calabria”, is a beach resort. Popular beach resorts in…
The cities of Calabria rank low on the list of Italy’s travel destinations. Few people would choose Reggio di Calabria or Catanzaro as a base for their tour of the region in the same way that they would structure a trip to Sicily around extended visits of Palermo or Catania. Which is why we approached…