Graffiti is Celebrated in City of Arts Dozza
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Graffiti is Celebrated in City of Arts Dozza

I don’t know about you, but whenever we come across a town that has been labeled a City of the Arts, I get a queasy feeling in my stomach. From experience I know that all too often, this means grim medieval palazzi and stuffy churches that have been packed with dark, baffling and impenetrable paintings…

In Nice? Take the Train des Pignes to Entrevaux!
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In Nice? Take the Train des Pignes to Entrevaux!

Two scenic train rides from Nice into its alpine back country are on the itinerary of most Riviera visits: the Train des Merveilles (to Tende near the Italian frontier) and the Train des Pignes (to Digne-les-Bains in the northwest). Ticking off the Train des Merveilles from our own travel schedule was one of the first things we…

Valli di Comacchio – Made Famous by Sophia Loren
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Valli di Comacchio – Made Famous by Sophia Loren

Of all the major European countries, Italy has always appeared to me the most culturally uniform. There is little that connects the baroque splendours of Catholic Bavaria with the Protestant restraint of Germany’s Hanseatic North and little common ground between Strasbourg and Nice, but there is an “Italianate-ness” of streets and buildings that is immediately…

Easy Hiking in the Italian Riviera Backcountry
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Easy Hiking in the Italian Riviera Backcountry

Organized bus trips, for all their benefits, have one major drawback: they are not purpose-made for hiking, and any opportunity they may offer for a walk is purely coincidental At best, you can find the space for a brief excursion, but at worst, you are virtually stuck in the bus for the whole day. You…

Go Hiking on the French Riviera Back Country
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Go Hiking on the French Riviera Back Country

When go hiking on the French Riviera, there are good reasons for preferring either the coast or the mountainous arrière pays. One possible reason for going one way or the other is undoubtedly the right psychological “match” between hiker and route. The coast at its best is friendly and open, but can also be loud,…

A Sporty Hike on a Hilltop in the French Riviera
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A Sporty Hike on a Hilltop in the French Riviera

Once they were giants – Breil and the Roya River. From the train, Breil-sur-Roya looks incongruously large and imposing, with its tree lined riverside avenue and two large churches in the centre of town. Located in that part of the border country between France and Italy that is characterized by perched hilltop villages and their nervous…

The Roadside Shrines of Northwest Germany
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The Roadside Shrines of Northwest Germany

Catholicism, in theory, is the same all over the world In reality, however, its practices are as different as a village in rural Germany is from Rio de Janeiro. Catholicism is probably best thought of as an abstract concept like “art” or “music” – certain basic rules are the same, but everybody creates something distinct…