Auxerre: The Spiritual Capital of La France Profonde
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Auxerre: The Spiritual Capital of La France Profonde

Towns in provincial France or La France Profonde come in two varieties: they either aspire to be smaller versions of Paris, or they do not. Auxerre – as near the geographical centre of the country and, perhaps, its heart as you can hope to get – is an excellent example for the second group. Auxerre’s…

The Story of Cordoba – 1000 Years of Conflicts and Coexistence
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The Story of Cordoba – 1000 Years of Conflicts and Coexistence

Cordoba is the hottest city in Europe – no more than par for the course, you might say, considering its latitude and the absence of any natural source for cooling (such as the presence of the sea). Cordoba, however, holds another distinction that may come as a far bigger surprise: it also was, albeit only…

Cordoba Patios – the Charms of Medieval Air-Conditioning Units
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Cordoba Patios – the Charms of Medieval Air-Conditioning Units

Cordoba in the south of Spain is the hottest town in Europe. Temperatures reach an average daytime high of 37° centigrade in July and August (100° F). In July 2022, the city experienced 19 days with 40° or more (104° F), a record for any European city, and one day in April 2023, the thermometer…

Beaucaire – Good Things Come in Threes
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Beaucaire – Good Things Come in Threes

There are two reasons to travel to the town of Beaucaire. Firstly, there is the experience of walking across a border: not a national but a cultural border, one that has divided France into tribes of different customs and habits for centuries. Up to a point, it still does so today. Take the train to…

Moats and Motives of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
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Moats and Motives of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

A river always comes in handy for a human settlement – that’s why so many towns across the world have one. Still, it’s rare to find a place that has found as many purposes for its natural waterway as the Provençal town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. First of all came the discovery that the river Sorgue was…

Avignon With No Jiggery-Popery – Or Very Nearly So
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Avignon With No Jiggery-Popery – Or Very Nearly So

Having returned from our recent trip to Avignon, I went through old Easy Hiker posts to check what we had posted from our previous visits of the town – and found, much to my surprise, that the answer was: nothing. Nothing at all! Was that even possible? We must have visited Avignon at least four…