Grenoble: The Alps for Beginners
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Grenoble: The Alps for Beginners

The High Alps are the best the European countryside has to offer. They are one of Europe’s last genuine wildernesses, bearing only the lightest touch of human hands, majestic and of a sublime beauty. But as always with great beauty, there is a catch. The Alps are not just playing hard to get, they actually are. Hikes on…

Burgundy Borderlands – The Discreet Charms of La France Profonde
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Burgundy Borderlands – The Discreet Charms of La France Profonde

The past is a foreign country, as even people know who have not read “The Go-Between” (or seen the movie). But whereas the opening statement of L.P. Hartley’s novel refers to past habits and customs (“they do things differently there”), one can just as easily apply the phrase to the looks and the structures of…

Croix des Gardes in Cannes: Ghosts of the French Riviera Past
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Croix des Gardes in Cannes: Ghosts of the French Riviera Past

The Croix des Gardes in Cannes is that rare thing among green spaces….. …. it is a park with a history that reaches back several hundred years. Not that the Croix des Gardes in Cannes had spent all of these centuries as a park. No public garden is that old. But it has occupied that…

Fontaine Gardens of Nîmes: Rococo, the Romans and the Charms of Modernity
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Fontaine Gardens of Nîmes: Rococo, the Romans and the Charms of Modernity

Here is a strange thing: some neighbouring cities, although physically very close to each other, have a totally different look and feel. Take Nîmes and Arles, two close neighbours in the south of France. They share, inevitably, some characteristics, but it is the differences that stick out. Arles is the quintessential small town in Provence:…

The Holy Maries, the Flamingoes and the Wild Marshlands of the Camargue
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The Holy Maries, the Flamingoes and the Wild Marshlands of the Camargue

When I was a boy, my home town’s local TV station carried a French adventure series that was set in the wild marshlands of the Camargue. There were a lot of wild horses, water buffaloes and cool guys riding white steeds bareback through the spray, but other than that, I have no recollection of what…

The Ruins of Old Aspremont: Hiking Back In Time
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The Ruins of Old Aspremont: Hiking Back In Time

Whatever happened to Old Aspremont? It was all a very long time ago. Modern-day Aspremont – approx. 15 km to the north of Nice – is a picturesque and quiet little place, one of a dozen or so “perched villages” on the list of visitors’ recommendations issued by the Nice tourism office.  But there is…

An Intimate Peek From the Peak – View Monaco From the Mont des Mules
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An Intimate Peek From the Peak – View Monaco From the Mont des Mules

Among the peaks of the Riviera, the Mont des Mules enjoys a special place. Not because of its height: at 291 metres, it is little more than a pimple on the landscape. Its long and varied history  reaches back into pre-Roman times and includes the episode when, in 1909, the municipality of Beausoleil (to which…

Make Sure Your First Post-Covid 19 Walk Is A Full Success
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Make Sure Your First Post-Covid 19 Walk Is A Full Success

I told you it was going to be a sunny day. Which was no mere coincidence, of course. In fact, we let several days go by since the lockdown in our area had been lifted. Because there was no way we would let our first post-Covid 19 walk since what felt more like an imprisonment…