Auxerre: The Spiritual Capital of La France Profonde
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Auxerre: The Spiritual Capital of La France Profonde

Towns in provincial France or La France Profonde come in two varieties: they either aspire to be smaller versions of Paris, or they do not. Auxerre – as near the geographical centre of the country and, perhaps, its heart as you can hope to get – is an excellent example for the second group. Auxerre’s…

Beaucaire – Good Things Come in Threes
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Beaucaire – Good Things Come in Threes

There are two reasons to travel to the town of Beaucaire. Firstly, there is the experience of walking across a border: not a national but a cultural border, one that has divided France into tribes of different customs and habits for centuries. Up to a point, it still does so today. Take the train to…

Moats and Motives of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
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Moats and Motives of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

A river always comes in handy for a human settlement – that’s why so many towns across the world have one. Still, it’s rare to find a place that has found as many purposes for its natural waterway as the Provençal town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. First of all came the discovery that the river Sorgue was…

Avignon With No Jiggery-Popery – Or Very Nearly So
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Avignon With No Jiggery-Popery – Or Very Nearly So

Having returned from our recent trip to Avignon, I went through old Easy Hiker posts to check what we had posted from our previous visits of the town – and found, much to my surprise, that the answer was: nothing. Nothing at all! Was that even possible? We must have visited Avignon at least four…

Rocamadour – Top of the Pops for One Thousand Years
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Rocamadour – Top of the Pops for One Thousand Years

Rocamadour in the Dordogne valley east of Bordeaux is one of France’s top visitor attractions, but unlike most of the other entries in tourism’s Top Of The Pops, it has been a hit for centuries. Had visitor numbers been measured in the Middle Ages, Rocamadour would have topped such a statistic year after year, centuries…

Limoges – The Chicago of Medieval France
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Limoges – The Chicago of Medieval France

Limoges is in possession of not one but two town centres. This does not make the capital of the Limousin province (located about half way between Paris and Bordeaux) unique as such, but its two richly storied ancient quarters, unlike most of the other town centre twins, are not conjoined. Centuries later, they still resemble…

Parc du Mugel – Pudding and a Tropical Paradise
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Parc du Mugel – Pudding and a Tropical Paradise

Seen from the train to Marseille, the Le Ciotat shipyards are the town’s most conspicuous feature. If you stand in the city centre, however, facing these very shipyards from the marina, Le Ciotat’s “Triplet Peaks” easily rival the old docks in size and prominence. In local parlance, these peaks are known as the rochers de…