Walks in the French Riviera: Walk to the villa on the French Riviera where W B Yeats died. In general, I don’t believe in the theory that you can acquire an understanding of literature through a process of natural osmosis in the places where it was once written – in other words that you can replace, for example, the effects of reading or watching Shakespeare’s plays by bumping your head on low-hanging Elizabethan doorways.
Having said that, visiting places where famous writers spent significant periods of their lives often produces benefits of the unexpected kind.
At the very least, it makes you explore areas that you would not otherwise have visited. This can indeed give you a better feel for the object of your visit – the work of the writer, perhaps, but certainly the town or the country where he has
Continue reading The Final Act for the Irish Bard
French Riviera Hikes: A walk through the hinterland of Beaulieu-sur-Mer for visitors in a hurry Today’s walk completes our short series of excursions to Beaulieu-sur-mer, the small town to the east of Nice on the French Riviera which is genteel, effortlessly elegant and everything else that Monaco so feverishly wants to be.
The trail summarizes the best of the Little Africa walk and the Saint Michel mountain hike of our last two posts and is therefore ideal for people who do not have the time for both, or, perhaps more to the point, the stamina to tackle the Beaulieu-to-Eze walk – which can, to be honest, be a trifle demanding in places.
This one is far shorter (with roughly 2 hours) and far easier than the other French Riviera hikes we’ve done, although also less dramatic and, for much of the way, more suburban than “wild”.
Continue reading Combining Coastal Charms and the “Lure of the (Semi-)Wild”
Hiking in the French Riviera: A walk through one of the lushest and poshest bits of the French Riviera One of the things I have been wondering about ever since we started to come regularly to the Riviera is: where did the Petit Afrique area in Beaulieu-sur-Mer get its name from? On one of our recent hikes, we had the opportunity to find out.
Actually, the area itself – located on the lower slopes of the Saint Michel mountain and stretching perhaps 1 km uphill behind Beaulieu beach – does not give away too much, so this was something I had to research after we had returned home from our walk.
And frankly, it was a bit of a disappointment. I had optimistically expected something like a “just-so story”, involving ideally a fierce tribe of cannibals, a curse or some other element
Continue reading How Little Africa in the Riviera Got Its Name
Hiking in the French Riviera: Like a good story, the walk from Beaulieu to Eze-sur-Mer reveals its plot in many twists and turns If I read an article about hiking and the author recommends a specific trail by praising its view, I know immediately: this is a walk I will want to avoid. This is because views on hikes are either fleeting, something you glimpse for a moment or two before, inevitably, you move on, or they are something that overstays its welcome.
I mean, what’s so great about staring at the same object from different angles, for hours on end? No matter how spectacular the view: after a while, you are beginning to lose interest. Which is why, when I read about the magnificent and spectacular views you get during a walk, I quickly turn the other page.
That has always been my rule –
Continue reading The Ultimate View of the French Riviera
Hiking Holidays: What do you prefer: the glamour of the lowlands or the solitude of the mountains? When does the hiking season start ? Obviously, this depends very much on where you are. In some parts of Germany, they turn this into an “official” event with speeches, oompah bands and Bratwursts, and the date for this celebration is usually some time in late April. So the easiest answer is: the hiking season starts when winter is well and truly over.
In our part of the world, winter has been cancelled this year – or, more precisely, cut down to a single rainy week in January.
Still, hiking in December, even around the northern Mediterranean littoral, is not a great idea: it may be sunny all right, and quite mild, too, but days are short, which means that for a daytrip, once you have taken into account the time
Continue reading Where to Go Hiking on the Riviera